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Let’ s talk skincare!

The skin protects the body from its environment, including from ultraviolet radiation and many microorganisms. The skin also regulates our internal temperature, excretes waste, guards against dehydration, and aids in the production of vitamin D. With its many sense receptors, the skin also allows us to feel and sense what is going on in our external environment.

Some skin ailments are acute (e.g., insect bites, boils, and contact dermatitis) and some are chronic (e.g., eczema, psoriasis, cystic acne, and tinea). Herbs can be useful in any of these skin conditions—acute or chronic.

ANTI-INFLAMMATORIES

Many skin conditions arise from inflammation, whether from within the body or on the skin. Inflammatory skin conditions include acne, eczema, contact dermatitis, and anything that is warm/burning and/or red. Following are several anti-inflammatory herbs with an affinity for the skin. There are numerous herbal anti-inflammatories not mentioned below, including tulsi (Ocimum tenuiflorum) aerial parts, aloe (Aloe vera) leaf, licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) root, St. John’s wort (Hypericum perforatum) aerial parts, plantain (Plantago spp.) leaf, comfrey (Symphytum officinale) leaf and root, lavender (Lavandula spp.) bud, violet (Viola spp.) leaf and flower, chickweed (Stellaria media) aerial parts, meadowsweet (Filipendula ulmaria) aerial parts, and marshmallow (Althaea officinalis) root.

ANTIMICROBIALS

Antimicrobial herbs have a broad-spectrum activity against pathogenic bacteria, fungi, and viruses and are useful for infective skin conditions including acne, herpes, athlete’s foot, and yeast infections. Below are detailed descriptions of a few herbal antimicrobials. Others include calendula (Calendula officinalis) flower, chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) flower, meadowsweet (Filipendula ulmaria) aerial parts, thyme (Thymus vulgaris) aerial parts, sage (Salvia officinalis) aerial parts, St. John’s wort (Hypericum perforatum) aerial parts, and barberry and Oregon grape (Berberis spp.) root and bark.

ASTRINGENT

Astringents tighten up the skin and help to stop the formation and flow of discharge. Astringents also constrict pores, tonifying the skin. A couple of herbal astringents are described below. Others include wild geranium (Geranium maculatum) root, goldenrod (Solidago spp.) aerial parts, meadowsweet (Filipendula ulmaria) aerial parts, agrimony (Agrimonia eupatoria) aerial parts, raspberry (Rubus idaeus) leaf, rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) aerial parts, sage (Salvia officinalis) aerial parts, and yarrow (Achillea millefolium) aerial parts.

VULNERARIES

Herbs that aid in the wound healing process in a general way are called vulneraries. Vulnerary herbs can be used for wounds, sores, or scars. Below are a couple of herbal vulneraries. Calendula (Calendula officinalis) flower, comfrey (Symphytum officinale) root and leaf, chickweed (Stellaria media) aerial parts, lavender (Lavandula spp.) bud, tulsi (Ocimum tenuiflorum) aerial parts, aloe (Aloe vera) leaf, and yarrow (Achillea millefolium) aerial parts can also be used for this purpose.

ANTIPRURITICS

An antipruritic is a substance that eases itching. Antipruritic herbs can be helpful for contact dermatitis or any other itchy skin condition. These are most helpful when used externally—consider an antipruritic bath the next time you get poison ivy! Antipruritic herbs include calendula (Calendula officinalis) flower, oat (Avena sativa) straw and seed, licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) root, and chickweed (Stellaria media) aerial parts.

EMOLLIENTS

Emollients soften and soothe irritated or inflamed skin, moisturize, and help to replenish the skin’s natural oils. Emollient herbs are usually rich in mucilage and can be particularly helpful for psoriasis, eczema, and aging skin. Emollient herbs are best used as poultices, compresses, or infusion-based creams.When used internally, emollient herbs are usually referred to as demulcents. Used internally or externally, herbs with mucilage lubricate and soothe tissue. Emollient/demulcent herbs include marshmallow (Althaea officinalis) root, comfrey (Symphytum officinale) root and leaf, and chickweed (Stellaria media) aerial parts.

OTHER CONSIDERATIONS

For chronic skin conditions, it can be helpful to keep a diary, recording skin symptoms along with other factors that might affect the skin such as stress level, diet, season, exercise, use of topical preparations, and hydration. The diet should be considered in all skin issues. A depletion of essential fatty acids has been linked to multiple skin conditions (Berbis et al., 1990), thus it is important to keep the skin full of healthy fats by including them in the diet.

Other practices that are commonly suggested for keeping the skin healthy include:

• Massage

• Skin brushing

• Hydrotherapy—alternating hot and cold water in the shower (3 minutes of hot water, 30 seconds of cold water, repeated at least three times)

• Moderate sun exposure

• Eating leafy greens (the skin loves chlorophyll!)

• Discontinuing the use of skin products and laundry detergents containing harsh chemicals.

HOMEMADE BODY CARE

Why make your own body care, when the beauty aisle already sags under the weight of numerous lotions and potions? There are many reasons: compared to commercial body care, homemade products contain known ingredients, are fresher, cheaper, and just as effective (if not more so), they encourage self-reliance and are a lot of fun to make! Avoiding that beauty aisle also means we stop supporting a profit-driven industry that largely preys on our insecurities to line its pockets. Every year, Americans spend an estimated 62 billion dollars on skin and hair care products with often baseless claims, many of which contain harmful ingredients produced without regard for worker health and the environment (The Economist, 2003). Unlike the food industry, the cosmetic and body care industry in the United States is not heavily regulated, and truth-in-labeling laws do not apply. In addition, many companies conduct cruel and unreliable tests on animals solely for the sake of marketing and liability reasons (Environmental Working Group, 2013). Even “natural” and “organic” labels can be meaningless when it comes to safety. The word “natural” can be used on a label if only 10% of a substance is natural (Hoffmann, 2003). In addition, many natural ingredients can cause skin irritation, are often functionally useless, and are frequently added to products only to increase their consumer appeal. Adding ginseng (Panax quinquefolius) to hand soap, for instance, plays into current fads, but is an unfortunate waste of a powerful and “at-risk” plant.Some of the lipsticks containing lead in the United States Food and Drug Administration (FDA)’s most recent tests are well-known “natural” brands (FDA, 2017b). Contamination is likely not intentional, but is a result of using raw materials mined from a contaminated and polluted planet. This predicament truly demonstrates that “what we do to the earth, we do to ourselves.” Another deep concern is that cosmetics and personal care products marketed toward people of color are significantly more likely to contain toxic and otherwise dangerous ingredients than those marketed to the general public, exposing these consumers to unnecessary health risks. Numerous studies have demonstrated that certain harmful ingredients—including formaldehyde-releasing and hormone-disrupting agents—are present both in higher amounts and in more products marketed toward women of color (Zota & Shamasunder, 2017). In addition, an analysis by the Environmental Working Group of products marketed toward black women found that fewer safe and nontoxic products are developed and made available; in some product categories, none of the products analyzed could be considered “low risk” (Pestano et al., 2016). The expensive, harmful obsession with the way we look and smell is exacerbated by pressure from mainstream media to conform to unattainable and unrealistic standards. As informed consumers, we can reclaim our image from the grip of these industries. As herbalists, we can inspire others to act with more awareness towards how they treat their bodies and help them become more informed about the products they choose to buy or make. A good rule is to never put something on your skin you wouldn’t eat (with some caveats!). Fortunately, we can make many simple products using ingredients we already have in our kitchens!

FIRST... SELF ACCEPTANCE

In using homemade body care products, you are practicing love for your body and self. As you soak in the tub filled with flowers, or rub a sugar scrub over your skin, shift your intention from changing yourself to a mindset of reconnecting with your body. Replace critical thoughts with a desire to be as healthy as you can, because being healthy is when you feel your best.Caring for your skin and body is not about correcting defects, but making the most of what you have. See if you can cultivate gratitude for your body and celebrate all the marvelous work it does to keep you healthy and alive. Let your hair be curly if it wants to be, or your skin the tone that nature intended. You are a one-time, unique expression of nature—let yourself be you!

HERB INFUSED OILS-

34 -Oils have long been used for body care products because they have been found to have many benefits to the skin—even before infusing skin-nourishing herbs in them! For example, oils may act as a protective barrier to the skin and allow the skin to retain moisture. In addition, oils exhibit an antioxidant effect and may modulate inflammation (Lin et al., 2018). When making herbal infused oils, choose good quality dried herbs and oils and always use sterilized glass jars with tight fitting lids. Consider using dark-colored glass bottles, which will help extend the shelf life of the oil, and adding a few drops of vitamin E oil to slow oxidation of the infused oil. Herbal oils are best made with dried herbs, because the water content of fresh herbs can cause mold to form in the oil. If you do use fresh herbs, it is best to wilt them for a day or overnight to allow moisture to evaporate from the plants before infusing.Some of you may be wondering if oil is okay to use on your face—won’t oil cause acne? The oil-phobia that is currently so prevalent is unfounded for many people, but everyone’s skin responds differently to individual oils and herbs, so you may need to experiment with what works for you. Also, keep in mind that if you’ve been disrupting your natural oil balance with soap or other harsh ingredients, it may take an adjustment period to bring your skin back to its own natural harmony.

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By friends!!